COTTON TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS

Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association (ATIRA), Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA), South India Textile Research Association (SITRA), Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA) are registered under the Societies Registration Act, 1860 (XXI of 1860).

The main objective of these institutions is to carry out research and render consultancy services to the textile industry on various aspects of textile technology with a view to reducing the cost and improving the quality and durability of fabrics, reducing pollution, conserving energy and utilising waste, adopting new technology and improving the technology in the decentralised handloom sector. A large number of projects of considerable importance was undertaken and the studies made by these Associations have helped to improve the efficiency and productivity of the textile Industry.

The Research Associations have carried out original and innovative work in several fields of Textiles. In addition to result oriented, short-term projects in the field of management in the Textile Industry, the Research Associations are also currently engaged in other specific projects such as (i) Development of Chitin & Chotosan derivatives and their evaluation as Textile printing thickness and for other applications, (ii) development of fabric hairiness indicator, (iii) a study on the role of cotton fiber maturity, (iv) development of computerized system for marker making in garment industry, (v) Development of industrial Yarn for specific use (vi) micro encapsulation of enzymens and other speciality chemicals and their use, (vii) upgrading the quality of knitted goods, (viii) fibre quality enhancement by process control at ginning etc. Besides, useful R&D work is also being done on jute diversified products with Government of India-UNDP Funds.
 
 

Visual  :  Eco Laboratory

SILK & ART SILK MILLS’ RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (SASMIRA), MUMBAI 

The Silk & Art Silk Mills’ Research Association (SASMIRA), Mumbai is a Textile Research Association located at Mumbai. SASMIRA’s principal activities include research and development, provision of technical services, testing and training facilities in the field of silk and art silk.

The main activities undertaken by SASMIRA during the year 1999-2000 are outlined below: 

During the year, SASMIRA has completed 5 projects sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles. These projects were on various topics related to mechanical and chemical processing of textiles, energy conservation, product development, fibre and polymer science and instrumentation. 

SASMIRA is giving excellent testing services to textile manufacturers, traders, exporters, Govt. Agencies, R&D institutes etc. for the past four decades in the field of man-made textiles, synthetic textiles and allied fields. With a view to gear up to new demands of the industry in the post-GATT world, it is developing into a major centre for testing value added Technical textiles like automotive textiles, Geo-textiles, industrial textiles etc. 

SASMIRA has also been actively involved in Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUF). SASMIRA is helping about 100 powerlooms units to prepare bankable project proposals for modernisation under TUFS. So far SASMIRA has completed works in 85 units. 
 

MAN-MADE TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (MANTRA), Surat

MANTRA is one of the Textile Research Associations catering to multifarious needs of the textile and allied industry at large. Activities of MANTRA are primarily aimed at planned and healthy growth of the decentralised textile industry. Activities undertaken by MANTRA during 1999-2000 are outlined below

MANTRA has been undertaking the R&D assignments as per the need of local synthetic textile industry and the stress is, particularly, more on the application and transfer of available research results (transfer of technology) to the local decentralised textile industry which badly needs such inputs to withstand the global competition round the corner. Looking into the needs of industry, MANTRA has undertaken research projects on such areas as pollution control (including noise pollution) and on mechanical and wet processing. Utilisation of solid waste, pollution control measures and toxicity reduction, reuse of water from spent liquor of dye-bath, utilisation of synthetic fibre waste for making fibre reinforced composites (from polyester waste and jute caddies) as well as on utilisation of hightech, i.e. air-jet texturing of microfilament of polyester yarn, etc. are mostly the areas on which projects have been undertaken. MANTRA management gives top priority to developing infrastructure facilities for R&D and Technical Services. 

MANTRA has a Computer Aided Design Centre and three Powerlooms Service Centres at Dhokla, Sachin and Pandesra. The present activities of these units include training of weavers for quality fabric production, design development on loom, testing and technical service support for loom modernisation activity etc. for local Weavers’ Co-operative Societies and weavers in respective areas.
 

INDIAN JUTE INDUSTRIES’ RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (IJIRA), Calcutta

The IJIRA, registered under West Bengal Societies Registration Act, 1961, is an autonomous Research Organisation funded mainly by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. IJIRA is governed by a "Council," headed by the Chairman, assisted by the Vice-Chairman and consisting of 24 members in all, drawn from the Industry, Government and Eminent Professionals. The Director is appointed by the Council and is the Principal Executive Officer of the Association exercising general power of supervision and coordination over all activities of the Association and is assisted by the Secretary-cum-Financial Controller, Deputy Directors. There are nine technical divisions and each division is supervised by and held in charge by a Head/In-charge/Group Leader.

The objectives of IJIRA are:

i) to promote research and other scientific work connected with the jute trade and industries allied with or accessory thereto;

ii) to establish and maintain laboratories and foster education of persons engaged in or likely to be engaged in the said trade and industry;

iii) to encourage discoveries; and 

iv) to examine and publish information regarding the nature and merits of inventions, improvements, materials and designs connected with the said trades of industries.

At present IJIRA has 59 primary members and 41 associate members.
 

Major area of Activities

• R & D
• Machnery & Testing Instrument Development (in collaboration with reliable manufacturers)
• Technology Transfer (for organised & decentralised sectors)
• Consultancy
• Entrepreneur Development Programme
• Testing (Physical, Chemical, Biological & Eco.)
• Standardisation of Jute-based Products quality
• Inter-Firm Comparison (on performance of Jute Mills)
• HRD & Training (for organised & decentralised sectors)
• Dissemination of IJIRA developments (through Publications of Research Papers, Newsletter & echnical Notes and participation in Exhibitions and Seminars)
• Annual Technological Conference & Workshop/Seminar at IJIRA

Some Major Achievements of IJIRA during 1999-2000 (till Oct.,99)

a) R&D

A few IJIRA achievements having major impact on the organised and decentralised jute sectors are highlighted in the following paragraphs.

i) RBO Technology for production of Food Grade Jute Bag (FGJB)
IJIRA has developed the RBO technology to produce Food Grade Jute Bags meeting the international specifications for packing food-grade products. IJIRA has specified quantitatively the quality parameters for such bags which are well accepted by the representative Associations of overseas buyers and also by IJO. A mechanism of Certification for HCF Jute Bags has also been evolved by IJIRA. IJIRA has already got approval for the patent on the above technology in several countries. Right now sixteen (16) jute mills and five converters are producing food grade jute bags (FGJB). IJIRA has earned technology transfer fee of Rs. 2.0 lakhs from four member mills. During 1998-99 Rs. 27.0 crores of FGJB have been exported and Government of India (GOI) is giving 10% Export Market Assistance through JMDC.

ii) Jute Processing Machinery Development
Recently, IJIRA has developed the following new process machines for jute which are now available commercially from indigenous manufacturers for the benefit of both decentralised and organised sectors : a) Composite Card, b) Composite Drawing, c) Intersecting Gill Drawing, and d) Ring Spinning. IJIRA has already initiated trial runs of these machines in the mill floor to assess their operational performance under the actual mill conditions. 

iii) Instrumentation for Testing & Process Control
IJIRA has also developed indigenously, in collaboration with reliable instrument manufacturers, two important electronic testing instruments:

• EVENJUTE (for testing the evenness of jute-based yarns) and 

• TENSOJUTE (for testing the strength characteristics of jute-based yarns) as import-substitution for the purpose of quality testing to the satisfaction of customers, overseas buyers in particular. Both these instruments are computer controlled and capable of producing test results and printouts as per similar imported instruments.

b) Technology Transfer
The demand for consultancy service of the Technology Transfer Division for increasing spinning and weaving productivity is growing as more and more member mills are queuing up in the line. As on October, 1999 around 15 mills are in queue for technical services of IJIRA. Approximately Rupees six lakhs earned from Technical Services.

c) HRD & Training
IJIRA organised need based package training programme for Jute Mills, & User Industries (like Fertiliser Companies), informal Sector (like NGOs), Women Group, Small JDP Units under Jute Programme & others. IJIRA has also facilitated training programmes for IJT, NIFT, Textile technology colleges, IIMs and management institutions. Total seven training programmes were organised by IJIRA & collaborated number of training programme, counseling etc. and facilitated training to NIFT, IJT & CTT. Total number of trainees benefited 58 excluding 120 student members of Technical Colleges. Till October, 1999 IJIRA earned Rs. 33000/- as fees for training of decentralised sector units.

R&D Details

a) Ongoing Projects
Presently, IJIRA is engaged in carrying out 42 nos. of R&D projects under the following areas as identified under the 9th plan for Jute R&D:
 

	Area	Project Nos.
i)	Productivity & Cost reduction	10
ii)	Process Improvement & Product Development	9
iii)	Quality Assurance	2
iv)	Instrumentation	1
v)	Diversified Jute Products	5
vi)	Eco Jute Products	1
vii)	Energy Management	2
viii)	Jute Reinforced Composites	3
ix)	Raw Jute Development	6
x)	Machinery Design & Development	3
	Total No. of R & D Projects :	42

b) Industry - IJIRA Interaction
IJIRA organised a one-day interaction programme between the Jute Mills and IJIRA in presence of the Jute Commissioner and the Joint Secretary (Jute) of the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India to identify and meet the challenges of Jute Industry. IJMA has sought R&D help in developing lighter weight fabrics and bags, food grade jute products for packaging of grains, waste control, substitute of JBO and uses of Jute caddies and dusts that generated by Jute Mills etc. 

As a follow up action, IJIRA and IJMA interacted and identified 5 thrust area & projects for immediate exploration.

Ministry has asked for more focused R & D activities and to initiate commercialisation and entrepreneur-ship development. IJMA has urged to expedite its preparation to adopt EURO-ECO standards for Jute also.

To identify and make IJIRA R & D projects beneficial to the industry, the Research Advisory Committee met at IJIRA on different occasions during this period, hold discussions on all the continuing as well as new R & D projects, and extended valuable guidance for these projects.

Besides this, IJIRA attended the investor forum of Bangladesh to popularise the technologies for commercial exercise that developed by IJIRA and searching the export potential of jute related technologies.
 

Major Extension & Support Services

For the benefit of both organised and decentralised jute sectors, IJIRA is continuously offering the following major extension and support services:

i) Technology Transfer
During this year IJIRA has been offering a package of several proven technologies to the jute Mills for improving Spinning & Weaving Productivity and more importantly for sustaining the improvement with the help of workers through appropriate on the job training by IJIRA.

During this year, 5 Jute Mills have been benefited and other 15 mills are in the pipeline.

In Jute Composite entrepreneurs have been encouraged by IJIRA. 4 units have taken technical support for commercialization of technology.

In Jute Fine yarn spinning, new technology machines are on trial run and three units are ready to take the consultancy from IJIRA.

Besides these, number of NGOs and small entrepreneurs are getting training on Eco-friendly dyeing and Chemical processing, Handlooom Weaving, design input and on skilled development.

ii) Testing Services

a) IJIRA Centres for Eco-cum-Textile Testing
For quality inspection of Eco-friendly Jute products, IJIRA has established one Eco-cum-Textile laboratory at Guwahati to cater to the need of the North-East region as regards transfer of technologies for jute, training and testing (physical, chemical and eco) of jute-based products and textiles. Another such laboratory is being established at Shantipur, Nadia District in West Bengal.

b) Testing Services to Jute & Textile Mills & Decentralised Units:
During this period, IJIRA has continued to offer regular testing services to jute as well as a few textile mills and also to some decentralised units. In the recent past, IJIRA has assisted NCJD to set up Jute Testing Laboratories in 9 JSCs for the benefit of decentralised units in particular and is regularly monitoring and assisting for better functioning of these labs.
 

iii) MIS & Information Technology:
With the financial assistance of the MOT, IJIRA has taken a lead role in organising an one-day Workshop-cum-Exhibition titled ‘Texinfotech’99 at Calcutta to make the jute mill executives and personnel aware of the benefits of various IT applications like E-Commerce, ERP etc.

To promote and popularise further E-commerce and ERP among the jute industry circle, IJIRA has also organised a Workshop on the subject in September, 1999.

Income generation 
(Apr’99 to Sept’99)

Own Generation - 19.0 lakh
 

WOOL RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (WRA), THANE

Wool Research Association (WRA) was established and registered under the Societies Registration Act, 1860 in October, 1963. A group of members representing various woollen industries came forward to establish the Research & Development laboratory for the benefit of woollen industry. 

WRA is at present organised under the following five departments, namely:-

i) Physical Test House
ii) Chemical Test House
iii) Textile Technology Department and Pilot Plant
iv) Computer Aided Textile Designing and Colour Research Laboratory
v) Eco-testing Laboratory

WRA is offering services for 100% wool and also for all types of woollen blends. 
 

SPONSORED PROJECTS

R&D work related to following projects was completed before March, 1999 and the final reports were submitted to Ministry of Textiles.

Completed Projects (In the stage of Technology Transfers)

i) To investigate the factors affecting eco-friendly processing of wool and its blends at various stages.
ii) To make the natural dyeing of wool eco-friendly with viable test methods for labelling.
iii) To establish the standard test methods and standards for woollen products from fibre to fabric.

ON-GOING PROJECTS
i) Computer Aided Embroidery Designing using WRA’s CAD system and EMI-14B single head embroidery machine.

ii) Development of economic friction spun multi-component yarn for high tech (Industrial fabrics) textiles.

iii) Development of Instrumental Analytical Techniques methods for separation and identification of isomeric reference to Eco-Testing.

iv) Development of the software for prediction of worsted yarn characteristics and optimising of various parameters of raw material.

v) Development of different types of knitwears, outwears, pullovers, knitted shawls from repco spun self twist yarn by using wool and other fibres in suitable blends. 

vi) Development of cotton core and wrapped woollen yarns on woollen spinning system and studying its suitability for dress materials, furnishings and knitwears.

vii) Development of innovative yarns and fabrics using elastomers (Lycra, Natural Rubber, Nylon) blended with wool, cotton, acrylic and designing comfortable and fashion oriented garments.

viii) Role of enzymes in wool processing.

ix) Isolation and identification of the most potent insecticides from their group of isomers and their use towards moth proofing.

x) Study of technical aspects of knitwears comprising wool, acrylic and their blends.

xi) Improving aesthetic value of the worsted fabric by enzyme treatment. 
 

EDUCATIONAL AND TRAINING ACTIVITY

WRA has started the special training courses as follows :-

i) Computer Aided Textile Designing (Part time/full time)

ii) Instrumental Chemical Analysis (part time/full time)

iii) Textile Testing & Quality Control (part time/full time)

The infrastructure for the educational activities like class rooms, furniture, presentation aids, availability of experts and guest lecturers were developed and nearly 50 students have benefited under the above said courses.
 

WORKSHOP

Techno-Transfer 99 Workshop on ‘Processing of Wool and Wool Blends : Achievements by Wool Research Association’ co-sponsored by Central Wool Development Board, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India was organised on August 17, 1999 at Seminar Hall of Wool Research Association.
 

Coordination Council of TRAs

In order to coordinate the activities of all the Textile Research Associations in the textile sector with a view to promoting linkages to the development of the textile industry and for achievement of national priorities, a Coordination Council for Textile Research Associations under the Chairmanship of Secretary (Textiles) has been constituted.

The functions of the Council are to assess the on-going programme of the research associations; identify programmes of priorities keeping in view the overall needs of the industry including decentralised sector; ensure appropriate coordination amongst different research associations; conduct periodical evaluation of the work carried out in the cooperative Research Associations; consider systemising research programmes and funding arrangements so that funding is relatable more closely to programmes conforming to plan priorities; consider all other matters connected with the effective functioning of these Research Associations.