
COTTON TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS Ahemdabad Textile Industry’s Research Association (ATIRA), Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA), South India Textile Research Association (SITRA) and Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA) are registered under the Societies Registration Act, 1860 (XXI of 1860). The main objective of these institutions is to carry out research and render consultancy services to industry on various aspects of textile technology with a view to reducing the cost and improving the quality and durability of fabrics, reducing pollution, conserving energy and utilising waste, adopting new technology and improving the technology in the decentralised handloom sector. A large number of projects of considerable importance were undertaken and the studies made by these Associations have helped to improve the efficiency and productivity of the Textile Industry. The Research Associations have carried out original and
innovative work in several fields of Textiles. In addition to result oriented,
short-term projects in the field of management in the textile Industry,
the Research Associations are also SILK & SILK MILL'S RESEARCH ASSOCIATION, MUMBAI (SASMIRA) The Silk & Art Silk Mill’s Research Association (SASMIRA), Mumbai is a Textile Research Association located at Mumbai. SASMIRA’s principal activities include research and development, provision of technical services, testing and training facilities in the field of silk and art silk. The main activities undertaken by SASMIRA during the year 1998-99 are outlined below: SASMIRA being an Association of the powerloom sector, the projects undertaken by SASMIRA are aimed primarily benefitting at this sector. With increasing globalisation of markets, the powerloom sector needs to meet international competition, and SASMIRA’s R&D efforts are directed at helping this objective. SASMIRA traditionally has also been contributing towards self sufficiency in the arena of national security through indigenisation and development of textile stores for Defence forces. During the financial year 1998-99, SASMIRA has started working on a Project entitled "Design and Development of a Light Fastness Tester with Features for Testing Samples under different conditions of Temperature and Humidity" sponsored by Department of Science & Technology,(DST), Government of India. During the year SASMIRA received 3 industry sponsored projects from (i) Gratex Wall Paper Ltd., (ii) Jaysynth Dyechem Ltd., (iii) Indian Oil Corporation Ltd.(IOC). SASMIRA’s technical cell renders technical support to the decentralised sector by helping them carry out tests and by giving advice aimed at solving working problems. SASMIRA’s laboratories are also recognised by various Government Deptts and are being regularly utilised for their testing needs. Technical service, which is one of the important services offered by SASMIRA to assist industries to solve their problems arising during fabric production, is availed of substantially by the industry. SASMIRA organises short-term training courses from time to time on various technological topics. The courses are designed to meet the requirements of the industry. Apart from regular course, it has been decided to conduct tailor-courses according to the requirements of the Corporate Training sector. SASMIRA also operates two powerloom service centres at Bhiwandi. MAN-MADE TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATION, SURAT (MANTRA) MANTRA is one of the Textile Research Associations catering to multifarious needs of the textile and allied industry at large. Activities of MANTRA are primarily aimed at planned and healthy growth of the decentralised textile industry. Activities undertaken by MANTRA during 1998-99 are outlined below: MANTRA carried out a large number of projects approved by the Government and also sponsored by the industry. MANTRA intends to take up projects of R&D and technical consultation in all areas related to quality and productivity improvement with emphasis on process and quality control, process and machinery development and the development of the value added products. MANTRA’s Testing and Technical Services division is being gradually strengthened for the past couple of years, where besides routine testing, technical services relating to trouble shooting assignments, trial run of industry’s required samples etc. are also undertaken. To expedite the test reports, the procedure for preparation of reports and billing in this testing division has now been fully computerised. In order to meet the scope of environmental pollution control and treatment services in the year 1997-98, MANTRA has established an Environmental Affairs Group. MANTRA is now Gujarat Pollution Control Board recognised Environmental Auditor to undertake Environmental Auditing of the industries as per Gujarat Pollution Control Boards’ norms. MANTRA has acquired a High Performance Thin Layer Chromatography (HPTLC) system . This system will be useful for analysis of organic compounds especially the amines and other dye intermediates, dyestuff, pentacholorophenol and pesticides INDIAN JUTE INDUSTRIES RESEARCH ASSOCIATION, CALCUTTA(IJIRA) R&D ACTIVITIES Jute Fibre 1. Upgradation of Jute Fibre by Enzyme Treatment has been completed and implemented in 22 jute mills. Enzyme production plant is producing enzyme and it is being distributed to the industry for their commercial trials. IJIRA has earned Rs. 7 lakhs during the year from this consultancy. 2. Project trials of JRC 321 have been completed with (i) conventional jute spinning system; (ii) fine yarn ring spinning system, (iii) blends; (iv) DREF; and (v) Wrap spinning technology. The quality and productivity of yarn from this jute fibre has improved. Farmers have been advised for large-scale cultivation of this jute fibre – JRC 321. 3. Steam Explosion Technology for Jute – Pilot mill trials at IAF, Germany and spinning trials in India with conventional jute spinning, fine yarn ring spinning, blended yarn spinning in cotton system, open-end spinning trials have been completed. All these trials have shown promising results in producing very fine yarn and blends with cotton, acrylic and polyester etc. The quality and productivity of yarn has also improved considerably. The project was sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and Rs. 29 lakhs was sanctioned for this purpose from the Special Jute Development Fund. Fabrication of the pilot mill equipment has been completed and installed in NJMC Unit Kinnison at Calcutta. In Phase II commercial trials will be conducted. 4. RBO (Rice Bran Oil) Technology for production of Food grade jute bags. In order to meet the expanding global market of food grade jute bags IJIRA has developed a new batching oil as an eco-friendly fibre lubricant based on Rice Bran Oil (non-edible, grade II) for processing of jute and allied fibres, which is totally safe for producing jute bags coming in contact with food. In other words RBO Technology is a market driven eco-friendly process technology. Salient features of RBO Technology • Meets the International specification for food grade jute bags. • Developed by IJIRA and patent applied in twelve countries. • Technology has been validated from a recognised German Laboratory also. • Eco-friendly process technology for jute and allied fibre processing. • For catering to eco-sensitive and health sensitive overseas buyers. • Currently RBO processed jute bags are being supplied for packing odour sensitive food products such as cocoa, coffee, hazelnuts and other food products. • No dearth of raw material in the country, only 3.0% of current production of Rice Bran Oil of the country will meet total requirement of jute industry. • Has the potentiality to substitute mineral oil with biodegradable vegetable oil for the entire industry. IJIRA has transferred this technology to 15 jute mills. IJIRA has earned Rs. 4.55 lakhs as consultancy charges so far. Spinning & Weaving
June Machinery Development
Jute Ring Frame
Activities under decentralised sector for transfer of technology
Jute Geotextile
IJIRA & Central Soil and Water Conservation Research & Training Institute (ICAR), Derhadun are transferring the technology of mines spoil stabilisation applying Jute Geotextiles in Himachal Pradesh through training and demonstration for small miners in the region. For the purpose the required Jute Geotextile has been developed in collaboration with a member mill and despatched to the destination. The material has been installed in a site and in the other site it is in progress. A repeat order of treated Jute Geotextile was received from Kandla Port Trust, Gujarat for construction of road on soft marine soil. The material was developed and treated in a jute mill under the supervision of IJIRA and sent to the destination. The inquiries received from BHEL, Tiruchirapalli and Boarder Roads Organisation, Delhi for Jute Geotextiles for construction of roads have been addressed supplying all information. In the mean time the problems faced by a member mill while constructing a road and a shed on filled soil in the mill premises was attended to with the help of an expert from the Civil Engineering Department, Jadavpur University. In addition IJIRA has developed another entrepreneur for treatment of geo-jute fabrics with rot resistant chemicals and bitumen and treated three types of fabrics. The fabrics are being tested in IJIRA laboratories. At the request of JMDC, IJIRA developed specified jute sleeves in collaboration with a member mill and supplied the material to the Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh for trial. IJIRA also helped NCJD for developing Jute Sleeves for horticultural applications by Central Himalayan Rural Action Group, Nainital, a NGO working in Kumaun range. Documents were supplied to NCJD for application of Jute Geotextiles in Northeast India through North East Region Council and Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council. Documentation: Publication of a brochure on application of Jute
Geotextiles for construction and repair of roads.
WOOL RESEARCH ASSOCIATION, THANE (WRA) Wool Research Association was established and registered under the Societies Registration Act, 1860 in October, 1963. A group of members representing various woollen industries came forward to establish the Research and Development laboratory for the benefit of woollen industry. WRA at present organised under five departments namely Physical Test House, Chemical Testing Laboratory, Eco-Testing Laboratory, Pilot Plant for Spinning and Weaving, Computer Aided Designing and Knitting, Colour Matching. WRA offering the services for 100% wool (indigenous and exported) and also for all types of woollen blends. Sponsored Projects
(i) To develop the software package for training in weaving technology. (ii) Development of designs for carpets and dhurries for training and service to the small and medium scale carpet sector. (iii) Value added utilisation of coarser varieties of Indian wool. (iv) To make the natural dyeing of wool eco-friendly with viable test methods for labelling. (v) To investigate the factors affecting eco-friendly processing of wool and its blends at various stages. (vi) Modification of existing reactive dyes and application techniques for use in woollen industry. B. On-going projects
(i) Computer Aided Embroidery Designing using WRA’s CAR system and EMI-14B single head embroidery machine. (ii) Development of economic friction spun multi-component yarn for high tech (Industrial Fabrics)textiles. (iii) To develop software for prediction of worsted yarn characteristics and optimizing various parameters of raw material (Input). (iv) Development of Instrumental Analytical techniques/ methods for separation and identification of isomeric mixtures with special reference to eco-testing. (v) To establish the standard test method and standards for woollen products for fibre to fabric. C. Recently sanctioned projects (July, 1998) The following projects were sanctioned by Ministry of Textiles and were started from July 1998. (i) Development of different types of knitwears, outerwears, pullover, knitted shawls from Repco Spun self twist yarn by using wool and other fibres in suitable blends. (ii) To develop cotton core and wrapped woollen yarns on woollen spinning system and study its suitability for products like dress materials, furnishing and knitwears. (iii) Developments of innovative yarns and fabrics using elastomers (lycra, natural rubber, nylon) blended with wool, cotton, acrylic and designing comfortable and fashion oriented garments. (iv) Role of enzymes in wool processing. (v) Isolation and identification of the most potent insecticides from their group of isomers and their use towards moth proofing. D. Machineries and equipments procured (i) High Performance Thin Layer Chromatograph System and CAMAG AMD-2 Gradient Chamber with standard spares and accessories for HPTLC under Upgradation/setting up Eco-Testing Laboratory at Wool Research Association, Thane. (ii) Toyoda Expert Computerised Embroidery System Model 850 under the
Project Titled "Computer Aided Embroidery Designing using WRA’s CAD system
and EMI-14B single head embroidery machine."
A. Terminal Report Evaluation Meeting of UNDP Project Recently, Wool Research Association has completed the UNDP Project titled "R & D Programme for development of bi/multi-component yarn from wool, jute and other fibres by using Friction Spinning Technology for Carpet, Dhurry, Blanket, Knitwear and Furnishing" and the terminal evaluation meeting and the project presentation was performed by WRA on 23rd April, 1998 among the Expert Committee members of UNDP Mission at New Delhi. B. Jute-Tex’98 (August’98 to Devember’98) Keeping in view the successful completion of the above said project and UNDP-GOI (Jute), the four seminars at different locations all over India except Mumbai and the technology developed and the skill obtained under the above said UNDP Project was transferred to the entrepreneurs and they were benefitted by the following seminars: JUTE-Tex’98 - Value Added Jute Diversified Products 1. Government Polytechnic, Nagpur on 12th August 98.
C. Workshop
D. Special training programme/orientation programme (by
WRA/for WRA).
Educational activities During the academic year 1998-99 WRA has started the special training
courses as follows:
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